GRADING

 Basics Of pattern grading 

Pattern Grading

Basics of pattern grading
 
I want to talk to you about grading
I will present to you the different techniques of grading 
First what is grading? 

It is a process that you do to all the sizes you need whilst keeping the proportions of your pattern piece. 
What is a basic size it could be any size you did your first pattern in 
The measure that we use in the grading process is standard measurements, as you know this might not be reality if you have a fit model or the customer has gained weight.
Now about the measurements that are used for the pattern, it’s the same as the pattern cutter will decide the pattern measurements the grader will decide the grade rules. that is why when you go store to store the sizes can differ and you might fit a different size in another store. 

That is why when you go store to store the sizes can differ and you might fit a different size in another store. 

There is a general rule of thumb to follow when pattern grading. The smaller sizes once you go below say XS in women’s wear the grade will change and be a smaller amount in the reduction of side seam. TOWARDS THE LARGER SIZE THERE IS NO LIMIT IN GRADING BUT the grade rule will change in women’s wear from size 24, the grade rule would change by the ratio of 1.5.
Visually the way some people grade can also be differ if you look at how they grade the end rule should be almost the same. Some Graders will always never move the centre front or centre back line whereas some graders will move the centre front and side seam and keep the waistline always at the same position. If it is done the later way, then the length will be added at the top of garment as the shoulder seam and neckline will move up. There are a few images below showing how. 
Sizing is key
Let’s talk about it the different ways people grade 
As I show the grading is all done on one side. Some people do like to distribute evenly on both sides. The most important thing to remember. Regardless of which way you grade the garment you should only be grading ¼ of the total grading needed. You also must remember you are just grading the contour, whatever is inside you are just moving not enlarging or decreasing, so if you have a princess seam etc it should just move not change shape. 
Where garments will have the largest movement is in the side seam grading and if you a grading a bodice the side seam will be moving out by 0.8cm per size for dual sizing i.e. s,m,l it will move out 1.5cm. The waist goes down by 0.5cm the shoulder point moves point 2mm per size upwards. 
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There are a few common methods for grading 

 Slash & spread method

Method 1.

The slash and spread method. Is very time consuming and not as accurate at moving points out from a fixed line i.e. the centre front. The main problem is where you are you going to slash and spread It is a very confusing method and there is no book that will show you how to do each style.
Method 2. 

Grading by shifting 

First you need to re trace you pattern piece on another paper

For each point you need to move your squared off line on the fixed line then you place a point on that line 1cm out and 3mm down. Then you place the pattern piece back on and shift that point down to the new point moved. This can be slightly inaccurate and also like the slash and spread techniques it can also be time consuming.

Method 3.

Grading by points

So instead of grading right on the fixed line. You move out each point by a certain amount. Some people have even made tools for this. This is also how a computer will move out the pattern pieces for grading



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